The Right Tools for Motorcycle Lovers! – 01

Read Time:5 Minute, 54 Second
Flat Lay metal wrenches of various sizes are in the tool box, top view. Close-up Carpenter’s Tool Kit

As with any other hands-on job, the old saying “proper tools for a proper job” holds true for motorcycle mechanics. While a professional mechanic will typically have upwards of $7,000 worth of tools, you can buy a full tool kit with all the basic tools for less than $200!

The home-based mechanic will not need a large, expensive tool kit to do most service and repair jobs on a motorcycle. However, you should remember some guidelines when assembling a starter kit of suitable tools for motorcycle work.

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Bearded man repairing his motorcycle in the garage.

Essential Tools

A starter kit for new mechanics includes a few basics that are typically available in sets, including:

  • Screwdrivers
  • Wrenches
  • Sockets

Which Screw Drivers?

Quality is especially important when choosing screwdrivers because so many parts on a motorcycle require removing panels or cases. Wear and tear will quickly prove frustrating with this particular tool. Philips-head or crosshead screwdrivers will damage any screw they are used on if their tip is rounded off.

Some crosshead screw drivers have replaceable tips. These are a good choice for professionals because replacement bits are inexpensive.

In addition to a basic screwdriver set, a motorcycle mechanic will find that an impact driver is an invaluable tool. These drivers impart a turning and impacting force at the same time, and they should always be used on crosshead engine-casing screws.

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Better Tools for Motorcycle Mechanics: Screwdrivers

Wrenches

Hand-held wrenches, or spanners, are used to remove or refit bolts and nuts that have hexagonal shapes for their lever point.

Two main types of wrenches are commonly used on motorcycles: open-ended and ring. These wrenches are available as a combination wrench with both an open and ring end.

Sockets

In many applications, the socket and ratchet system has replaced wrenches to make the job of removing and refitting nuts and/or bolts quicker.

The internal shape of the socket is either hexagonal or multipoint (also known as twelve point).

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Better Tools for Motorcycle Mechanics: Sockets and Wrenches

Quality

The quality of tools is a very important consideration for any would-be mechanic. In the days when “guaranteed for life” meant the life of the tool and not the company, many mechanics considered this the only option in tool buying. Today, the options between high price and quality are plentiful.

As a basic guideline, a tool buyer should consider the item in question in terms of how it will be used. For example, a 10-mm combination wrench will be used extensively on all modern motorcycles (not classics or vintage bikes). Therefore, this wrench in particular must be of a high quality.

High-end items will cost considerably more than will those of a lesser quality. Mechanics often buy a set with a price and quality that falls in the middle range and then replace well-used items (such as the 10-mm wrench) with top-quality items as or when they become worn. It should be noted that tool guarantees do not cover normal wear and tear.

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Better Tools for Motorcycle Mechanics: Graph For Choosing The Right Quality of Tool

Tool Boxes

As a mechanic’s tool kit gets bigger, so too does the need for a bigger tool box to keep everything in. With this in mind, someone just starting to acquire tools should consider buying a tool box that can be enlarged. For example, most tool box manufacturers sell top boxes and roll-around base units separately. The top box is a good starting point because most of the early tools you buy will be relatively small. The roll-around cabinet can be purchased later as the need (or funds) arises.

Two things affect the price of all toolboxes: the material they are made of and the type of drawer slider used. For most applications, boxes made of unpainted stainless steel are the best option because they are durable and can be easily cleaned.

Because the drawer sliders are used every time the mechanic needs a tool, their quality is important. The best choice is steel ball-bearing sliders.

These sliders are typically classified as “heavy duty.” However, nylon and other manmade materials used on drawer sliders can last for many years if cleaned and lubricated periodically.

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Bearded man in leather jacket and sun glasses is sitting on the motorcycle in the repair shop

Beyond Basic Tools

Having established a good basic tool kit, you can begin looking into more specialist tools on an as-needed basis, such as:

  • Electrically powered tools
  • Compressor and air tools
  • Pullers and extractors

Electrically Powered Tools

Besides soldering irons, an electric drill is the first purchase beyond basic tools for most mechanics. A selection of drills will be necessary, too. In recent years, battery-powered drills have become very popular as the technology behind their batteries has ensured both power and longevity. However, most battery-powered drills are still cumbersome and limited to easily accessible places.

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Visit our website if you want the perfect match between wheels and tools!

Compressor and Air Tools

Most mechanics will say they don’t know how they managed without a compressor and air tools in the early stages of their mechanical careers. Two air tools in particular stand out as must-haves for a motorcycle mechanic: a blowgun and an impact driver.

Blowguns are inexpensive and are available in kits that include tire inflation chucks.

Blowguns are used primarily to clean component parts, such as those in a carburetor. An interim replacement for a compressor and blowgun is a pressurized canister used to clean computer keyboards.

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Better Tools for Motorcycle Mechanics: More Advanced Tools

The impact gun is a must-have air tool for disassembling many high-torque items on motorcycles. This tool can be used to loosen large spindle nuts, clutch center nuts, flywheel nuts, and fork leg holding bolts. Although all these items can be disassembled using conventional tools, the impact gun will make this type of job much easier.

Compressors are available in numerous shapes and sizes, but one with an eight-gallon holding tank and the capability to produce 125 psi (pounds per square inch) should be considered the minimum specification.

Pullers and Extractors

As a mechanic’s knowledge increases, the repair or service jobs they are likely to tackle become more involved. At this point, pullers and extractors become an essential part of the mechanic’s tool kit. However, because pullers and extractors are somewhat specialist in their application, the mechanic should purchase them on an as-needed basis.

Home mechanics can get a good usable tool kit that accomplishes most tasks at low cost. Going for quality is still an option, especially if you can go old school with manual tools. So get your tool kit up to snuff, and get the bike in its best working order!

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Moust of all, Remember that Always You Can:

Choose Your Destiny!

Visit our website if you want the perfect match between wheels and tools!
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BTRubbertire: Learn How To Ride Knee Down

Read Time:5 Minute, 46 Second

Long before tires had the grip available today, a rider whose knee touched the ground was milliseconds away from crashing. But over the decades, as technology developed in both motorcycles and tires, it became possible for a good rider to lean over so far that a knee touched the ground.

In basic scientific terms, knee-down riding is a result of taking a bike to its maximum lean angle on a corner, in order to take the corner faster. This causes the rider to hang over the bike, with a knee touching the ground (we think it’s pretty cool, too).

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Knee Down Riding Explained
History of Riding Styles

A few decades before it became the norm to use knee sliders when racing, it was considered untidy to have your knee out on a corner. The likes of 1960s multiple-world champion Mike Hailwood barely moved in the seat when leaning into a corner. But as more and more riders began to lean off their machines, a new style began to take over.

British motorcycle racing fans of the 70s will recall the unique style of Dave Croxford. He leaned so far off his bike that when he was viewed from the outside of a corner, only his leg was visible.

Around this time was also when one of the most famous British riders, Barry Sheene, came out; he had his knee out so far on corners that he began to wear away the knees in his leathers. So began the trend to slide off the bike toward the inside of the corner – stick one’s knee out and drag the slider around the corner. Modern racers have taken this a step further and are now dragging their elbows!

How to Get Knee-Down

So how is this done? Needless to say, it is not a good idea to do this type of riding on the street. The best method of learning to use knee sliders is to attend a track day at your local race track. Track days cater to riders who want to take their machines beyond the legal limits of public roads. The track sessions are generally split into novice, intermediate, and expert levels, which gives the beginner a chance to learn properly, and acquire the necessary skill to use knee sliders.

Learning any new riding technique that involves higher-than-normal speeds is risky, and should be approached slowly.

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How To Hang Off Your Bike

The Concept

Initially, the rider will build up speed until sliding off the seat in the corner entry seems natural. The lower the rider hangs off the seat, the less need there is to lean the bike. This is because the center of gravity is lowered when the rider’s body drops to the side of the bike. It’s in this balance of leaning the bike and hanging off the side that higher corner speeds are controlled.

Braking Later

Increasing the corner speed will make it necessary to lean the bike over, but this must be done in gradual stages or there will be a lot more than the knee sliders making contact with the tarmac! The best way to increase the corner speed is to practice the same corner over and over, braking closer to the corner on each try. This is covered step by step below.

As the rider leans over more, the slider will touch down. The experience will be unnerving the first time, but as long as the rider maintains a steady posture and makes no sudden movements, the corner can be taken with ease.

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Learning Knee Down Riding Technique

Sighting Lap

Before getting close to higher speeds to try out those new knee sliders, all riders on track days should do at least one sighting lap. The objective of this lap is, as the name implies, to “sight” the track and accomplish the following:

  • Warm up the tires and brakes
  • Check for the position of rumble strips (see note below)
  • Check for any oil dropped by previous riders
  • Memorize run off areas (corners with no run off – grass – should be taken well within the rider’s/bike’s capabilities)

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Knee-Down Learning Process

  • Travel at high speed (145mph), sitting in the tucked position – typically below the fairing (shell) to reduce aerodynamic drag, heading towards the corner.
  • At the 200-yard mark, sit up and apply the brakes hard, dropping your speed to where you feel comfortable cornering. This braking point and entry speed is safe enough for this theoretical corner and requires the bike to be leaned over moderately.
  • As you lean the bike to corner, slide your body to the lower edge of the seat and bring your knee out.
  • On the next lap, wait until the 150-yard maker before braking hard and repeating the same body movement. Due to the increased speed you must lean the bike a little further, and hang lower off the seat. You may get low enough for your knee slider to touch the ground at the apex of the corner.
  • Finally, on the next lap, do not brake until just after the 150-yard marker. This has the effect of increasing your straight-line speed, requiring the bike to be leaned over slightly more. Again, the effect is to bring your knee slider into contact with the ground for a few yards before and after the corner apex.

Notes:

  • Most race tracks have marker boards before corners, for riders and drivers to use as brake reference points – only use fixed marker points like these.
  • Many race tracks have ‘rumble strips’ (raised corner edges often made from concrete and brightly colored). These raised corner edges were generally put in place to stop race car drivers cutting the corner. As these rumble strips differ from track to track (sometimes from corner to corner on the same track), the rider must inspect them before any hot laps are attempted. You can do this during the sighting lap (described above). Hitting a rumble strip with a knee slider can cause a crash, and professional riders often lift the knee momentarily when nearing the rumble strips.
  • Dragging elbow sliders is only done by some of the world’s best MotoGP™ riders. It should be noted that the ability to do this is somewhat dependent on the rider’s shape. A rider with a small body will not touch the ground even at the same corner speed, on the same bike or at the same lean angle as a larger one (see film of Marc Marquez and Dani Pedrosa, for example).
  • During track days, all of the riders will attend a morning briefing to warn about the potential dangers while riding on a racetrack. It’s particularly important to stick to a chosen line, since a following rider may be about to pass at considerably higher speeds.

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Moust of all, Remember that Always You Can:

Choose Your Destiny!

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BTRubbertire: Tuning for Motorcycle Engines (Performance)

Read Time:5 Minute, 47 Second

There has always been confusion about the word “tuning” when referring to engines. But we prefer and choose the dictionary definition: “to bring into harmony.” We need to say that about motorcycle engines, there are a number of different applications of the word “tune”:

What does we mean with “Tuning”?

• Engine tuning
• Tune up
• Race/performance tuning
• Stage tuning
• Fully tuned

For the most part, there are two common, distinct applications of “tune” in motorcycle engine technology. The first is where a stock machine is serviced or tuned up, and the second is where an engine is highly modified or race “tuned”. Here, we are going to consider the different aspects of tuning an engine for competition, as in race/performance tuning.

It is very beneficial to begin by understanding the way a four stroke engine works. The illustration below covers the four stages of a four stroke engine. This may help you understand just how your performance mods and tunings may affect the engine.

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Performance Tuning Motorcycle Engines: The Four Stroke

Why Tune?

The objective of tuning is to improve the volumetric efficiency of the engine. In other words, the engine will, after tuning, produce more power from the same displacement. For example, a 1000-cc engine may produce 125 hp in stock form and 175 hp after race tuning.

It is very important to understand that tuning a single item (fitting bigger carbs, for example) may not in itself improve performance but will, used in harmony with other modifications, produce the required results. Also, fitting aftermarket tuning parts may not result in the hp increase the individual items claim to provide. For example, 10 items each claiming a 10 hp increase may not give a total of 100 extra horse power, as they may not work in harmony (i.e., in tune) with each other.

The Cylinder Head

The cylinder head on most modified overhead valve (OHV) engines will typically be gas-flowed, will have larger valves fitted, and will have the cylinder head face skimmed to increase the compression. All of these modifications – with the exception of skimming the head – are to improve gas flow.

The fuel air mixture travels from the carburetors through the inlet manifold, into the cylinder head via poppet valves. The fuel is directed inside the combustion chamber by the shape of the piston and the internal shape of the cylinder head. The cylinder head is the top of the combustion chamber, closing in the pistons.

Modifying the cylinder head (to improve the gas flow) typically involves a process called “porting.” Porting is when you alter the path of the fuel entering the combustion chamber. Fundamentally, porting involves raising the angle at which the fuel/air mix enters the combustion chamber. The higher the fuel comes in, the more power.

This process is called increasing the downdraft angle. It also requires thinning the valve guides where they protrude into the port and reshaping the cylinder head where the fuel/air mixture passes the inlet valve. Occasionally, the exhaust port will receive similar treatment. You can make these modifications by hand, with a dye grinder, or with a milling machine.

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Performance Tuning Motorcycle Engines: Cylinder Head Porting

In addition, the OHV operating system will generally be lightened to reduce the total moving mass of the components. To complement the cylinder modifications and the gas flowing, most tuners will fit a new exhaust system and bigger carbs (where fitted).

Camshafts

Regardless of a camshaft’s location within the engine, it will be replaced or modified on a tuned engine. In general, better camshafts will open the valves more quickly, keep the valves open longer, and cause them to “overlap” more (a condition where both the inlet and exhaust valves are open at the same time).

Although it is possible to get camshafts reground to change their shape or profile, it is best to purchase proprietary items from a well-established supplier. The reason for this is simply that grinding the original camshaft will not increase the valve lift (speed of lift and opening duration can be reground) and can, in some cases, cause serious engine damage, as the grinding process can remove any surface hardness the manufacturer saw fit to include in its camshaft specification.

Great Power Requires Great Upgradeability: Cylinders, Pistons, Cranks, and Rods

As the power output increases, so too does the load or strain on the components. As such, it is necessary to upgrade some highly stressed components to cope with the extra power and associated heat generated.

Fitting lighter, stronger pistons is necessary on most tuned engines, as they are subject to increased heat and higher stresses (often as a result of a higher operating rpm).

Due to the higher rpm achieved with tuning, the connecting rods should also be replaced with high-performance units such as billet steel, aluminum (drag racing typical), or titanium rods.

In very high performance tuning, the crankshaft must be replaced or modified. One-piece crankshafts are favored by tuners, but modifications to the stock cranks, including welding the crank pins into place and shot peening, are possible.

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Performance Tuning Motorcycle Engines: Best Parts to Upgrade

Auxiliaries

A tuned engine will develop more heat. Therefore, it is necessary to improve the cooling system. In general, most tuners will fit an engine oil cooler as part of any tuning arrangement to offset the increased heat. In addition, most tuned engines will require a slightly rich mixture which, besides helping with the tuning, will have the added benefit of cooling the components as the fresh charge enters the engine.

ECUs and EMS

Electronic control units (ECU) and engine management systems (EMS) are common on most high-performance street bikes in current production. These systems often lend themselves to fine-tuning the onboard computer’s mapping for the fuel table and ignition system. Kits are available for most makes and models of motorcycles fitted with ECUs. Some kits have the advantage of having real-time displays or recording capabilities to enable the owner or mechanic to make adjustments that ensure the correct fuel ratio matches the ignition timing and that both remain inside the safe operating parameters of the engine.

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In Conclusion

Over the years, almost every type and design of motorcycle engine has been modified to improve its performance. However, an owner must be very clear as to why, and how, he or she is going to do this. Manufacturers spend many hours designing an engine that will perform under many varying conditions, including hours on dynamometers to optimize the design. Making an engine produce more power without reducing its reliability appreciably is a challenge to any would-be tuner.

Tripling the power output of an engine for drag racing may seem like a good idea, but if some of its components only last a quarter of a mile! Think about this.

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Moust of all, Remember that Always You Can:

Choose Your Destiny!

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BTRubbertire: Know the Basics of Motorcycle Safety Gear!

Read Time:5 Minute, 59 Second

Buying gear can be overwhelming: dealerships and online superstores are full of expensive products promising to combine style with protection, but what do we really need? Find out where it’s safe to be frugal – and where pinching pennies will cost you more in the long run.

One of the major benefits to riding motorcycles is the increased sensory stimulation: scents and sounds that would otherwise be muted by the confines of a car come alive around us. Of course, that same lack of restriction also increases exposure to the elements and therefore to danger. Because of this, motorcyclists must compensate with wearable protective gear.

The good news

Motorcycle safety gear is by no means in short supply. Catalogs, online retailers, and motorcycle dealerships all offer a variety of goodies and accessories designed to protect riders.

The bad news

Rarely does motorcycle gear come cheap, and the inundation of products can make it difficult to tell the difference between essential and superfluous.

That’s why we are here to help. Let’s take a look at the basics of motorcycle gear for a greater understanding of what you need to ride and what you can skip.

The Basics

1. Helmet

While not all states (or countries) make wearing helmets mandatory, protecting the skull from impact should be a top priority for riders of all skill levels and disciplines. A full-face (integrated visor) helmet offers the best protection but does so with a few shortcomings, namely increased weight and decreased environmental interaction.

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Beautiful young woman in black leather gloves and protective motorbike helmet.

Wearing partial coverage helmets allows for more direct environmental interaction but makes eye protection like goggles or glasses a necessity.

Some modular (convertible) helmets are dual-certified as both full-face and open-face status, where the chin bar can be locked into place while riding but “flipped up” or removed entirely when stopped.

According to research conducted in 2008 on motorcycle riders who had crashed, results concluded that helmets reduce the risk of head injury by roughly 69% and fatality by 42%

Motorcycle helmets contain decals on the back indicating the degree of safety certification performed. DOT represents the United States Department of Transportation safety certification. It is the minimum requirement for any approved motorcycle helmet and must be clearly displayed for the purchaser and/or an officer of the law.

Snell is an independent testing laboratory which tests helmets more rigorously and stricter than the DOT standard. If a helmet doesn’t wear either label, do not purchase it or use it for motorcycling.

2. Gloves

Not only are gloves essential for debris protection and temperature insulation, they serve as an invaluable purpose in the event of a crash, where we instinctually attempt to break our fall with our palms. Wearing gloves can reduce the risk of injury to the hands by 45% and reduces the risk of open wounds by 73% 3.

Additionally, a decent pair of gloves reduces risk of burns when performing simple maintenance in and around a hot engine compartment. Finally, studies link colder temperatures and skin exposure to delayed motor response. In an environment where fractions of a single second can make a difference, keeping digits warm is invaluable.

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Caucasian motorcycle rider in fashionable black leather jacket and helmet, adjusting gloves

3. Jackets & Pants

Like with helmets, there is no universal set standard when it comes to selection of clothing when operating a motorcycle. Motorcyclists have traditionally been associated with the use of leather for this simple reason: Not only does leather offer resistance to the wind when traveling at highway speeds, it is surprisingly beneficial in diffusing friction from the road in the event of a crash. These days, synthetics and polymers in textiles offer alternatives to genuine cow skin but the goals when assembling a riding outfit remain unchanged.

4. Boots

While footwear is a personal preference, there are factors (such as a non-skid sole and oil resistance) to seriously consider when making a selection. Wearing the proper motorcycle boots can reduce the risk of injury by 45% and reduce the risk of an open wound by 90%.

Leather work boots can work in a pinch, but purpose-built motorcycling gear is preferable because the toe-box is typically lower-profile than a typical work boot. This makes getting a foot under the shift-lever less cumbersome.

Additionally, specifically placed lugs are designed to keep feet on foot pegs. Ankle protection against impact and twisting is usually accomplished through ergonomically designed plates. Finally, the risk of laces coming untied and entangled during a ride is avoided by plastic or metal enclosures typically found on riding boots.

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While we covered the essentials that no motorcyclist should consider riding without, this is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to protective gear on the market today. The good news is that with a little common sense, deciphering what is crucial and what you can do without isn’t a daunting task.

Beyond the Basics

1. Back and Chest Protectors

Full protector jackets (or racing suits) are the absolute best bet from a safety standpoint. Full protector jackets offer friction resistant outer materials and an air chamber. The trouble, however, is twofold: they tend to contain heat and are rarely cheap. The good news? Many of their qualities can be duplicated through individual back, chest, and neck protectors designed to keep the spine safe. These protectors attach around the waist and the neck and are worn under your jacket. Using these protectors will reduce the risk of injury by 23% and a 63% reduction of an open wound injury.

If the thought of adding additional layers to your riding gear cramps your style, some degree of spinal safety can be attained through armor inserts for your riding jacket. Most riding jackets come standard with a removable spine protector insert.

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2. Elbow and Knee Guards

While dedicated riding gear often includes some degree of joint protection, riders who only sport leather or denim need to protect their elbows and knees. Separate knee and elbow guards are available in a wide variety of shapes, styles (over or under clothing) and price points. These key areas of the body are often damaged in a crash: 50% of crashed riders injured their knees, with 56% of crashed riders having arm injuries.

Just like helmets’ DOT & Snell certification, motorcycle protective components should boast a CE certification (for Conformité Européenne). Never purchase or use gear that lack this standard.

Fatigue, especially during long rides, has been linked to the droning sound of air rushing around the helmet. An affordable and simple solution is to use foam earplugs, which are typically sold in disposable and reusable varieties.

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Biker in action looking rear on the road with the right Motorcycle Safety Gear
Riding a motorcycle is exhilarating, exciting, and life changing. However, it is also dangerous. Make sure you are wearing the proper gear before heading out on your bike. Preparing for a safe ride – without breaking the bank – is the first step to enjoying the open road!

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Moust of all, Remember that Always You Can:

Choose Your Destiny!

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The Moust Essential Guide to Your Motorcycle Tires! – Continuation of “how to read your motorcycle tire codes”. Part #3

Read Time:6 Minute, 37 Second
Get the right motorcycle tires! BTRubber Tires

Motorcycle Tires 101

Information is a handy thing to have, and this is particularly true when it comes to something as important to your health as your motorcycles tires. Accordingly, tire manufacturers and the federal government have devised a system that lays out just about everything you need to know and placed it conveniently on the tire sidewall. The problem is that much of that information is in a sort of code that needs deciphering before the message means anything. What follows is a guide to doing just that.

It’s important to understand that while the law requires certain information, tire manufacturers have a lot of leeway in the way that material is formatted. They’re also free to add anything they deem pertinent, or even mildly interesting, so the amount of information and its placement can vary greatly between manufacturers or even between two similar tires from the same maker, so don’t be surprised if your tires don’t look exactly like our examples.

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Manufacturer’s Name

This one is self-explanatory, it identifies the tire maker, and lets you know who to thank, or blame, if your tire elicits strong feelings.

Tire Type

This identifies the particular tire within the manufacturer’s range. It may appear as a name, for example, Cobra (Avon), Lasertec (Metzeler), or Battlax (Bridgestone), or as an alpha numeric designation like AM26 (Avon). If there’s enough room, some tires may include both.

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Tire Construction Detail

The construction detail section describes the internal construction of the tire. Among other things, it’ll list the type of material used to build the tire carcass, and how many plies are used. It may not mean much to you, but it’s pornography to a tire geek!

Advanced Variable Belt Density

Remember what I said about the manufacturers being free to add information they thought you might like? Well, this little tidbit is basically advertising. It refers to the belt that runs throughout the circumference of the tire.

Get an example whit our own tire specs!
Get the right motorcycle tires! BTRubber Tires

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Tire Size Designation

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This one’s a biggie, kids. It tells you the size and profile of your tire, what size rim it fits, and, in most cases, includes information on the tire’s speed rating and construction, though these will always be listed separately. Over the years three basic systems have been used: the inch, which is the oldest, and formerly the most popular; the alpha-numeric, which was a little confusing and never very popular; and the current favorite and all-time most popular, the metric. While both inch and alpha-numeric systems are still in limited use, primarily among vintage bike enthusiasts, we’ll pass them by in the interest of brevity and concentrate on the metric system, which has become the standard of the industry.

In our example, the size designation is 170/60ZR17. The first number represents the tire’s nominal width, which is the width of the tire from sidewall to sidewall when the tire is mounted on its rim and properly inflated, but not under load. This is called the section width. In this case it’s 170 millimeters, and no, they never actually print the “MM” on the sidewall. The second number represents the nominal height of the sidewall as measured from the tire bead, where it contacts the rim, to the point where the tread meets the ground. This is called the aspect ratio. Where it gets tricky is that this second number, 60 in this example isn’t a dimensional measurement but a percentage of the tire’s width. In this case, 60 percent of 170 is 102, meaning we have a tire that’s 170 millimeters wide, and a side wall that is 102 millimeters high.

The Z represents the tire’s speed rating. Let me digress here and point out that unless the tire is Z-rated – meaning it’s good for sustained travel at 150 mph or more – the speed rating isn’t normally included in the size designation label. Manufacturers usually place the Z in the size description when the tire is W- (168 mph) or V- (186 mph) rated to indicate that this version of the tire is intended for high performance use and for bragging rights.

The R tells us that this is a radial tire; if it were missing we could rightly infer that the tire used bias ply construction, and in every case that would be listed somewhere on the tire as well.

The 17 means this tire is designed to fit a 17-inch rim. Armed with this information and only this information, you now know enough about your tire’s construction to safely replace it, no matter the circumstances.

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Load Index and Speed

This box will contain a two-digit number followed by a single letter. The number tells you how much weight the tire can bear at its maximum inflation pressure. The letter indicates the maximum speed the tire can handle, also at its maximum pressure. The speed ratings can be a little confusing – as a rule, the higher the letter, the higher the speed, but there are exceptions. H, for example is rated at 130 mph, while an S-rated tire is only good to 112 mph. A fuller description of both load and speed ratings can found on most tire company websites or in their catalogs.

ECE Approval

This stands for the Economic Commission of Europe and means that they’ve approved the tire.

Tubeless or Tube Type

(Sometimes “tube type when fitted to a spoked wheel”): This indicates whether the tire can be used with a tube for spoke wheel applications and/or installed without one when appropriate.

Directional Arrow

The arrow indicates which way the tire should rotate when the motorcycle is moving forward.

Manufacturing Date Code

This is another handy piece of information. The date code is a four-digit number that tells you what week and year the tire was built. For example, 1721 means your tire was built during the 17th week of 2021.

DOT Compliance Symbol and
DOT ID Number

These indicate that the tire is both legal to sell in the US and traceable should the DOT need to recall them for any reason.

Maximum Load and Pressure

This one seems redundant as it repeats information we already have. However, in this case, rather than use a symbol, the maximum load is spelled out in pounds. The maximum pressure setting is always cause for confusion. This number represents the maximum amount of pressure the tire can safely withstand at its maximum load. It is not the recommend tire pressure for normal use.

Most motorcycles will have their stock tire sizes, and appropriate tire pressures on a sticker appearing low on the bike’s frame or swing arm.

Pattern Code

The manufacturer’s tread pattern code; it’s of academic interest only.

Country of Origin

If you need to know (Ours are from India and China).

Get the right motorcycle tires! BTRubber Tires

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Lastly, there are two indicators missing from the illustration that are sometimes present. The first is the Balance Mark – a dab of paint that tells the tire installer where the tire’s light spot is; the second is and the Wear Indicators, which are small triangles, or the letters TWI (Tire Wear Indicator) imprinted at several points around the tire’s circumference. These show you where the tire’s wear indicators are located.

Finally

Please understand that while the foregoing provides you with a guide, and hopefully a better understanding of the type of tire your motorcycle requires, it’s by no means complete. In all cases, either the original equipment manufacturer or the tire builder’s catalog should be consulted when questions concerning tires arise.

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Moust of all, Remember that Always You Can:

Choose Your Destiny!

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